icture this. You are sitting by the streets, sipping on a nice hot coffee. The coffee though in this part of the world is pronounced and written as Kopi. It has condensed milk over regular milk and is mildly bitter. There are people around you also reading newspapers in peace, minding their business. Someone passing by slides a plate of toast, not just any toast, but a Kaya Toast. It is slightly sweet, slightly salty and very buttery. Topped with some soft-boiled eggs.
This is in a few words the culture of a Kopitiam, a roadside eatery in most parts of Malaysia. A culture most Malays are familiar with and enjoy too. It is almost like a ritual, you wake up, head to the nearest Kopitiam, sip on coffee, read papers, munch on a toast, and then head to work. Does this also remind of the “addas” in our own cities here? In the north you may replace coffee with a Kadak Chai and puri/paratha/poha, down south a nice filter coffee, Idli, Vada and Sambhar. There still are conversations, exchanges of political happenings and we then head to work.
Bringing these two cultures together in Namma Bengaluru is the extremely popular pastry chef- Joonie Tan. Joonie is a known face in the city for bringing the most aesthetic cakes, pastries and training many other budding chefs around. She goes on to share that pastry art has always been a significant part of who she is and will always be. However, she felt she needed some change around, go beyond just pastries, to represent a larger piece of her heritage. Storytelling comes naturally to her and through Kopitiam Lah, she’s bringing alive the Malaysian culture in the city!
Urban centres like Bangalore, Mumbai today are increasingly bringing to their consumers extremely authentic experiences because the locals no longer want fusion food. They are well travelled, well read and have the ability to appreciate their food. One cannot get away with iconic dishes by tweaking them for the Indian palate by adding a few extra spices. Gone are the days when you would get the Indian masala versions of dishes. From pizzas to pastas and traditional curries of Thailand, Indonesia and now Malaysia, it tastes like it would there. Joonie also feels that consumers today are looking for experiences that bring together the community. “There’s also a huge demand for spaces that feel like home, that bring cultures together, especially in a city as diverse as Bangalore. I believe the trend will be toward more community-driven, authentic dining experiences that tell a story”, she adds.
This coffee shop brings alive the coffee shop culture from Malaysia that traces its history back to the colonial era when during the world wars, jobs were scarce and people needed sources of income, they turned to doing business by opening coffee shops. These coffee shops then served limited dishes like the Kaya Toast, coffee, and tea, however in the modern day, serve a much larger affair. Ask her on her memories of growing up in Malaysia, she quips “Growing up in Malaysia was a blend of rich cultural experiences, especially around food and people. We are a country of 3 main races – Malay, Chinese and Indian. Every corner you turn, there’s something
exciting — be it street food or the comforting warmth and friendly people around you. It’s a place where food connects people, where families gather, and the concept of sharing a meal is deeply rooted in our lives. It’s a country rich with diversity, and that really influenced my love for food and the sense of community.”
Located in the heart of Indiranagar, the cafe is aesthetically done like Joonie would decorate one of her beautiful cakes. It instantly leaves a mark on you. The casual setting too isn’t just a coincidence. According to Joonie, The Malaysian Kopitiam culture is very much about simplicity and comfort. Kopitiams are the heart of the community — a place where people come not just for the food but for the conversations. It’s casual, approachable, and has something for everyone. The open space, familiar menu, and a setting where you can chat with friends over coffee or a meal — is what she is bringing to Bangalore.
This very coffee shop culture also left a mark on her in her growing days. So much so that there is a small element of personal touch in every dish that comes off the kitchen at Kopitiam Lah! Led by Chef David D’Souza as the Head Chef, the cafe also brought in the Chef-Patron of Dewakan in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia’s first ever two Michelin Star Restaurant Chef Darren Teoh as consultant chef.
Joonie who grew up in Malaysia and spent many years later here in India says, “Growing up, I spent countless mornings in Kopitiams with my family, where we’d linger over a meal of Kaya Toast with half boiled egg, Wan Tan Mee, Milo or a cup of Kopi. That experience of togetherness and warmth is something I wanted to replicate at Kopitiam Lah. The casual environment where people feel at home is really a tribute to those cherished moments.”
Quiz her on the similarities between the strong coffee culture in the state and Malaysia, she says, “Kopitiam Lah blends the coffee heritage of Malaysia with Bangalore’s vibrant coffee culture. Our Hainanese style roasted coffee, often known as Kopi, is brewed using a unique method that creates a stronger, richer flavor. We’ve paired that with locally sourced coffee beans from estates around India to ensure a blend of both worlds — authentic Kopi with the quality Bangaloreans appreciate.”
Now, Bangaloreans can’t get enough of Kopitiam Lah and hence reservations are a must before you head there. Some of the popular dishes that we tried were- the Nasi Lemak, which is often called Malaysia’s national dish, and Nasi Goreng Kampung, which is a spicier fried rice that holds a special place for many Malaysians.
As for drinks, you must try their Kopi or Teh Tarik – a rich, frothy pulled tea that’s a quintessential part of Malaysian life. Like every Kopitiam, they too serve Malaysian-style snacks like Kaya Toast, half boiled eggs and curry puffs which are available in for breakfast.
There are more. Some dishes that you may not find in traditionally in Kopitiams but in the houses of Malaysians. The personal touches that we spoke about earlier, are these. Dishes that her mum made at home or those that were made in neighbouring households find a place in the menu.
There are also wontons, noodles and soups that reflect the deep Chinese influence on the cuisine. This also reflects the deep efforts the team has taken to get perfection to the T. Chef David and Joonie spent months in Malaysia exploring various Kopitiams to get the dishes and their flavours right! Even if that means getting some of the ingredients straight from Malaysia.
What next? The team is excited with the unlimited possibilities this experience offers! From pop-ups to more collaborations and exploring other cultures, they are gunning for the long game!
Staying true to her words of bringing together a sensory experience, Joonie successfully brings alive this beautiful cafe and how! “It’s savory, sweet, bitter, and spicy, just like our culture”, she signs off!
Address: Kopitiam Lah, 1088, 12th Main Rd, Doopanahalli, Indiranagar, Bengaluru. 91-7259543888;
Cost for two: Approx. Rs3,200. The space opens at 8:30am and is operational only for breakfast and lunch for now.
Image Credits: Kopitiam Lah.