It was the first time when I visited Chennai for the Music Festival. I was there promptly to attend the morning concert at the iconic Madras Music Academy – the spectacular auditorium where one of my favourite musicians, Neyvelli Santhanagopalan was performing. Listening to Neyvelli’s music steeped in classicism and Bhakti bhava, first thing in the morning and the grand setting of the Music Academy is the memory that will be cherished forever – a dream come true moment. It was also the day S Sowmya was performing. And, before witnessing another stellar concert, one had the chance of brushing shoulders with the Vidushimani, as she was walking in the corridor with her students. It was also the day I had tiffin and coffee at the famed Academy canteen. In short – ticked all the right boxes as a first-time visitor.

It was also the year when I witnessed first-hand the mass euphoria for super star Sanjay Subrahmanyan. Despite holding the entry pass, a quick detour to listen to Sudha Raghunathan at Narada Gana Sabha for the 4pm concert delayed my entry a bit. There was still time for the concert, but there was no place to sit in the auditorium. Heavy requesting was followed by a quick tip to try entering from the back, where a couple of rows of extra seating was added, an effort that wasn’t in vain. Sanjay Subrahmanyan was divine – if he enjoys super stardom in Carnatic music echelons – he deserves every bit of it and more.

THE ANNUAL PILGRIMAGE
For music aficionados from the rest of the world – the Chennai Music Festival is an annual pilgrimage; many make Chennai their temporary home for the month to be able to dwell in the music revelry at leisure. In fact, that’s the only way for outsiders to make the most of what’s on the platter. Every Carnatic singer / musician worth his while is seen performing at one Sabha or the other at all times during this month, which is promptly followed by the dance festivals that go on till Pongal.

The vibe is palpable – not just for the listeners, but the musicians as well. The Chennai Music Season is beyond the concert schedules, the silk saree and dhoti clad audience, the canteen food (a topic that will be discussed in detail in the later part of this article) – in fact it has long before ceased to be restricted by clichés.

At the sabhas, you see audiences of all age groups – and people evidently diverse – coming from across the world, dressed comfortably, kids accompanied by their parents, a group of young boys and girls you would ideally see hanging out in a café, a mother tagging along her teen daughter holding a book of Dork Diaries, a father with his kids, senior couples in their traditional silks, a group of ladies – their sarees making a modern style statement and the malle flowers in their hair giving away their love for tradition, foreigners standing out for the colour of their skin – people walking in alone, in groups – all united with one passion – music.

THE ARTISTS’ GALORE
Now a days, with more and more sabhas – perhaps the number of audiences is reducing as it is being reported –. But as it has always been, the musician sitting on the stage is hardly impacted. He or she performs with equal vigour and enthusiasm to an almost empty house as they would for a houseful of audience. The singers, I learnt, arduously prepare for the season, curating the best from their repertoire, and rehearsing in order to put their best foot or shall we say the best song forward. And, if you feel that Sriram Parasuram looks more eager and has chosen the best and rare compositions and ragas to present his unique style of Hindustani – Carnatic music or that Malladi Brothers have added an extra dash of divinity to their compositions, or that Trichur Brothers are sounding more enchanting than ever before- then most probably you are not imagining it all.

OUT OF THE WORLD EXPERIENCE
The music festival is about music yes! But it is also about history, culture, tradition and above all propagating a sense of community and togetherness – that’s missing in this digital world. Visiting the age-old sabhas in itself is an experience. While listening to Geeta Venkataraghavan at the Sri Brahma Swamy Sabha – one can’t but reflect upon the story of the legendary actor Chittoor Nagaiah, who envisioned building this spectacular auditorium when he saw the plight of the T Nagar residents who were walking back from a concert – drenched in rain. A music concert of Ranjani Gayatri at the Kalakshetra – is also a reflection of the history and the legends associated with the organisation. And, the list is endless – of the singers and the sabhas that have so much to offer.

As a good friend had advised – the best way to enjoy Marghazhi Music Festival is to walk into various sabhas and be prepared to be amazed by the wonderful musicians and singers you will end up discovering and listening to. This is besides your Must – Do list.

And, despite the controversies that one hopes are lesser for music’s sake, the dwindling audience and reducing interest in the long format music concerts – the music lovers of Chennai, the young students and music lovers in the audience who make for a delight sight, and the rasikas from across the world – not to mention the music Gurus who are moulding some of the brightest of future talent will keep the Music Festival alive and thriving.

MAGHAZHI – HISTORY
The Marghazhi – which is actually the auspicious month of the Tamil calendar began to be associated with classical music when in 1927 a music festival was planned to coincide with the Congress Party’s session in the city. Perhaps during the time, Congress leader S Satyamurti envisioned it to be a showcase of the cultural fabric of the region which is invariably intertwined with Carnatic music. Then followed establishing the Music Academy in 1928, and rest as they say is history. Since, then come rain or shine or even floods – Chennai music lovers and the scores of Music Sabhas have strived to keep the spirit of music alive. During the season – you can literally feel the music in the air. Chennai was included in UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network for its rich musical tradition in 2017.

CANTEEN FOOD – CRITICISM & LOVE
The canteen food at sabhas is as popular as the festival itself. And, the popular advise besides the artists’ recommendation you get from the regulars is ‘Do not miss the canteen food’ – which is soul satisfying – no less. For many years, I have read articles by critics who have had a problem with people thronging to the canteens. Mostly they are semi-humorous pieces – one of the recent ones said there are more people in the canteen than in the auditorium. And, after actually head counting at Obul Reddy Auditorium – which is the smaller performing space at Brahma Gana Sabha, for the 4 pm concert – I chose to defer. The canteen at the sabha offered some of the best tiffins – super delicious dosas and rawa dosas, vada, uthappam and idli, and the halwa doused in pure ghee – and yet the audience that chose to come to the canteen for a break hardly made an impact on the almost full auditorium that was enjoying the concert by the Great Granddaughters of MS Amma – S Soundarya and S Aishwarya. Mathematics apart, food is an integral part of the culture of a place or region – and the sabha canteens are doing a commendable job of serving the best from the Chennai’s vegetarian cuisine – which surely deserves a separate place in the UNESCO Heritage list. The Tirupati Laddu at the Parthasarathi Gana Sabha Canteen stood out for me besides the amazing hospitality of the family that runs it.