We were welcomed by Bula resounding in unison as soon as we stepped foot at the Nadi Airport. The welcome greeting continued throughout our trip everywhere we went. Before we let you in on our Fijian sojourn, let us brief you on Fijian time, yes there’s a time that exists in the world clock and there’s something called Fijian time. Although according to the clock, it’s understood that in Fiji, everything runs at its own slow pace. No one is in any rush here. “I’m on Fiji time. No hurry, no worry. Try running on Fiji time for a day, happiness and relaxation guaranteed” – is a common saying and no one ever looks stressed at any point of time. We soon moulded ourselves from concrete city life to living a slow life in Fiji time. Every islander I met looked genuinely happy and gave us the warmest sunshine smiles with the sweetest of Bula greetings.
There are about nine family-friendly resorts in Port Denarau, at a short drive from both the Nadi and Suva international in airport, each one more luxurious than the other. Our home for the week was a stunning Accor Beach facing property at Viti Levu. Our welcome kit at Sofitel Fiji included a room key card with a pair of sunnies. After a long flight to this beautiful island, the cozy comfy bed looked extremely inviting and we slept like a baby. We woke up fresh at the break of dawn and got dressed for a hearty breakfast with a view. The buffet spread was extensive with a mix of Continental, Fijian and also an Indian section.
What sets Denarau (located on the western coast of Fiji’s main island) apart is that there’s something for everyone, be it a couple on a honeymoon or an entire family seeking some adventure. There’s also endless entertainment for families who can check out Fiji’s exclusive land-based waterpark. While those seeking relaxation can bask in tranquility and soak in the Fijian sun or indulge in a soothing massage for an ultimate pampering experience. With Port Denarau at our doorstep from all the hotels and resorts here, we had easy access to exciting excursions and island-hopping adventures.
We hopped onto a cute van courtesy Pehicle Tours to kickstart our island journey at Port Denarau, a hub of all things fun.
On Cloud 9
Cloud 9 is Fiji’s first and original two-level floating boat with an internationally stocked bar and Italian wood-fired pizzeria surrounded by turquoise blue water and picturesque views. This was one of the coolest party spots we could have asked for. With the kind of views we had it was time to completely bliss out as we sipped on some curated cocktails and gorged on thin crust pizzas. There was a DJ playing peppy music that set people in the right mood to shake a leg, or better still take a plunge in the ocean. After a few slices and some sips, we also decided to jump right in. Snorkelling at this remote island beach with the best views of the marine life was the right decision we had made.
Purple Turtle Speedboat picked us up from Cloud 9 for Matamanoa Island. Patrick Wong, General Manager of Matamanoa Island Resort and Lela welcomed us to this secluded private adults-only island for a delicious lunch of Kokoda (pronounced Kokonda, raw fish cooked by marinating in lime juice and infused with coconut milk) and local grilled reef fish followed by pineapple fritters and ice-cream.
A quick spa session at SO spa at Sofitel was just what we needed to relax our aching muscles. The therapists here have magic in their hands. The oil options included coconut, coconut lime and coconut milk and honey. I picked coconut lime for myself and after some magical strokes, I was all set for a sit-down dinner at Waitui Beach Club with Michael Bell from Sofitel. Most resorts on Denarau host a Fijian cultural night that usually includes a traditional earth oven (lovo) feast and dance.
Snorkelling with Mantarays
You can take day trips to the fabulous dreamy Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands. We decided to hop onto the South Sea Cruises coach on the Yasawa Flyer that departs for Mantaray Island Resort from Port Denarau. I was so excited to head to the stunning Yasawa Islands to snorkel with majestic mantarays from the moment I woke up this morning.
It was a perfect day out in the deep ocean on our high speed catamaran as we got lucky to sit in the Captain’s lounge. It was going to be a day of beach bumming on white-sand beaches with crystal clear water and incredible snorkelling. As we took the plunge in one of Pacific Harbour’s finest lagoons, diving deep into another world, where the only sound was our heartbeat and the ocean’s whisper, we saw in front of us a kaleidoscope of colours of fish in shimmering blues, vivid yellows, striking reds, electric greens, oranges and pretty purples that stood out against the coral reefs. None of us wanted to head back once we had got a taste of the deep blue sea in the form of mantarays gliding throughout the vibrant tropical reef…as majestic as they could get. It was truly a sight to behold. We gazed in awe at its unparalleled beauty.
If you love to go deep diving, Fiji is a dream destination for scuba divers with a multitude of epic snorkelling sites. Whether it’s your first or your 16th time on a South Pacific Ocean adventure, snorkelling in Fiji is always an outstanding adventure. Needless to say we were mesmerised by the “Soft Coral Capital of the World” known for its underwater beauty. The fringing coral reef eco-systems teem with a variety of sea life and dramatic reefs. Swimming in the deep ocean can really work up a hearty appetite. We set out for dinner at Bonefish Seafood Restaurant that night and were served some of the freshest seafood delights imaginable.
The Real Fiji
Moving on to the Tapoos Sigatoka Centre, our friendly guide Emily Matatolu from Sigatoka River Jet Tours briefed us about what was in store for the day for our Sigatoka River Safari Jet Boat Adventure, Village and Cave Safari. Fiji’s pristine waters, white sand beaches, and lush rainforests make up a perfect natural wonderland for a plethora of adventure activities.
The Sigatoka River Safari
Fiji’s original and the world’s first Jet Boat and Village Safari, the Sigatoka River Safari was an unforgettable experience. This immersive eco-cultural adventure transported us deep into the heart and soul of Fiji, aboard their custom-built safari jet boats. We cruised our way up the magnificent Sigatoka River with picturesque views of lush rainforests on all sides and cascading waters. We set off to visit Fijian villages and experienced a day in the life of the real ‘kaivitis’ (Fijians).
Experience Fijian Culture
No trip to Fiji is ever complete without really sampling some of its local culture. Get to know the locals and experience Fijian customs through cultural-based activities. We visited a Fijian village to learn more about Fiji’s rich culture and engage with its warm people up, close and personal. Wrapped up in sarongs, we made our way to a local Fijian village. The priest and his family welcome us for visiting their part of the world. We are gifted complimentary safari sulus and are asked to wrap them around like sarongs.
The priests’ family of four brothers and other families from nearby Sautabu village that are traditional keepers of the Naihehe Cave for centuries also visit. The sevusevu or traditional offering of yaqona, also known as kava is presented to the priest seeking his blessing and guidance. We sit down and witness the entire kava making ceremony with a short prayer before the kava powder is mixed with water and sifted and strained to get the coveted drink that the Fijians love to drink. Kava is important to Fijians as it keeps the family and the entire village together. Back in the days only the men would drink kava, but nowadays even the ladies drink it. Kava ceremony though is done by the men in the village.
After the kava ceremony, we are also served some kava in a small wooden bowl. It almost looks like muddy water and is believed to elevate mood and wellbeing, bringing a feeling of relaxation. We also danced with the locals. It was time now to witness a traditional lovo ceremony. Lovo is an underground earth oven that the locals used to cook us up a feast. It is a core part of their local culinary arts. This traditional technique involves digging a pit into the ground, placing hot coals inside and placing chicken, corned beef, fish, pork, onions, kassava and coconut cream and vegetables and palusami taro leaves wrapped in foils, to help the food slow cook in its own steam and juices. The pit is covered in taro leaves as it traps the heat, soil or potato sacks and left to slow cook for several hours. The pit is unearthed to reveal deliciously cooked, tender food. After witnessing our food being cooked, we were served a delicious lunch of spinach with coconut milk and onion, chicken and spinach, taro leaf cooked in the lovo, roti with potato curry, eggplant coated in flour and fried in coconut milk, sausages, kassava (Fijian potato) and rice, freshly cut watermelon, pineapple, papaya and banana. We plonked ourselves on the floor mats as the Church minister says a short prayer before we eat the food prepared by the locals…an experience that is a must-try when in Fiji.
Our Off Road Cave Safari guide Emily led us to the entrance of the Naihehe Cave. Legend has it that no one can go inside the cave without seeking their blessings or true to the meaning of Naihehe, one will get lost if they venture into the cave by themselves. This is where the last tribal war took place. The name of the cave says it all… Naihehe means ‘a place to get lost’. Emily tells us that this was home to the ‘Sautabu’ people during Fiji’s tribal warfare days to retreat to and hide from their enemies. Due to its natural fortress characteristics which prevented attackers entering on masse, the clan was able to successfully defend themselves from many enemies over centuries. There’s one part inside the cave which is called the pregnancy gap as it was used by pregnant women to hide from others.
People of Fiji
The people here are a mix of Polynesian, Melanesian Micronesian, Indian, Chinese and European culture. An interesting part was the fourth generation Indians we met here speaking in a unique dialect with influences of Awadhi and Bhojpuri. These Indo-Fijians or Girmityas are descendants of indentured laborers brought to Fiji by the British between 1879 and 1916 to work on sugarcane plantations. Today they contribute to agriculture, business and even politics and have their own standing while seamlessly integrating into the Fijian society.
The Pearl Fiji
Set on one of Fiji’s longest sandy beaches and surrounded by lush tropical gardens, The Pearl Resort is an idyllic escape in the heart of Fiji’s adventure. The Firewalking Ceremony tradition began around 500 years ago, in the small highland village of Nakarovu on Beqa Island. The legendary firewalkers are bestowed with a special gift that seemingly protects them from fire. After applauding and watching men walk on fire we were in for an Indian feast, prepared by Chef Gokul Sankar from Chennai.
River Tubing
We visited the Sabata village in Namosi Highlands where Auntie Rosie led us on and shared some interesting anecdotes along the way. We passed by many waterfalls on our boat as we sailed through the rapids. She also shows us the place where a scene from Anaconda 2 was shot. And no, there are no anacondas here. From lush rainforests hiding cascading waterfalls to rugged mountains offering breathtaking hiking adventures, Fiji’s mainland is a treasure trove of natural beauty and thrilling experiences.
We stop our boat at one of the waterfalls and trek down to its base pool. After some fun in the water, we lunch on chicken, kassavu, sausages, salad and fruits.
The River Tubing activity on Navua river surrounded by lush vegetation was exciting. It started drizzling and that added to the adventure. They say – When it starts raining in Fiji, it doesn’t know when to stop. Each one of us takes a tube that is actually an inflated tyre tube and floats down the river as the tides take their own course. We form a chain with our group of four girls using our feet as hooks under the shoulders of the person in front with our guide Tawake leading us strong. Mostly gentle, yet at some places the rapids do get fast as we come screaming downstream. It’s such an adrenaline rush. Within a few minutes we all gather at the centre of the river and while I catch my breath, I begin to hear a sweet melodious sound of someone singing. It’s Tawake singing in Fijian and soon all the other group guides join in creating magic in the middle of nowhere as time stood still with their soulful renditions. I look up at the sky, the hills and forests around me and send a silent little prayer to the Almighty feeling grateful for beautiful moments like this that make our life worthwhile. As they say in Fiji – Sega na leqa (hakuna matata or no worries). The best was truly saved for the last.
After some quick shopping of souvenirs and a traditional Fijian dinner with the Meke, a traditional Fijian dance and storytelling with songs that night, we packed our bags that night for our flight back home the next morning. We said Vinaka (thank you in Fiji) for all the warm hospitality that the islanders had showed us with promises to return soon.